Kepala Manyung Bu Fat in Cinere is a great restaurant that neglects a critical thing: safety measures
Kitchenesia.com - On one fine afternoon, I was sitting on a restaurant terrace with one of the owners. We still didn’t manage to snag an indoor table, although it was past lunchtime and I had the owner with me. It turned out a local YouTuber was shooting a video, and they took time more than expected. A young waitress convinced us that they would’ve gone shortly.
I have restrained blasting tons of questions around just how the owner, who’s a year older than I am, had established two successful branches in less than a year. Banik Yoandanny started her story at the very beginning, when her grandmother started the hottest restaurant in the capital city right on her house terrace.
“It was a modest diner in our home terrace back in the day. We only provided a rug for the guest to sit on,” said Banik while reminiscing over the days long past.
Kepala Manyung Bu Fat started in 1969 in Semarang, Central Java. The "Kepala Manyung" was from her restaurant's signature dish, which we'll be discussing later on. The last two words came from the founder's nickname, Bu Fatimah.
Fatimah passed away in 1999, leaving behind a priceless legacy: the family recipes. Her children expanded the business by making two branches in Krobokan and Banyumanik; both regions are in Semarang. Twenty years later, Bu Fat's granddaughter expanded the business farther to Jakarta.
And here I am with Banik Yoandanny, the granddaughter of Bu Fat in Kepala Manyung Bu Fat's branch in Cipete, South Jakarta.
Very Gardeny, Very Outdoorsy
From the outside, the bright restaurant looks compact and slightly small. The vast parking lot creates an optical illusion that it uses a lot of plot. When I entered, it shocked me how spacious and open it feels. The building consists of three parts: the outdoor area where I am currently sitting, the indoor space, and a VIP room on the back. Facilities like a praying room and a toilet are also comfortably spacious and clean.
On some walls display wood panels and windows as decoration. Some indoor plants also bring a lot of natural ambiance to the restaurant. Surrounding inside are wooden tables and chairs that I’d someday like to have on my house terrace. Kepala Manyung Bu Fat exhibits a gardenlike concept contrary to the typical ocean-themed seafood restaurants out there.
Genuine Beach Dish in the Middle of City
I mentioned earlier that Kepala Manyung is the major signature dish of this restaurant. You can find it in other restaurants, as a matter of fact, since it is a traditional food from Central Java. Kepala Manyung Bumbu Mangut is a popular dish across the north coast way (Pantura) Semarang.
The highlight of this dish is a whole piece of smoked ariid catfish head poured in a spicy stock called bumbu mangut. Similar to those fancy food names in a fine-dining restaurant, the ridiculously long name represents what this food is all about: smoked ariid catfish head in traditional spicy stock.
Banik wasn’t joking when she told us that one fish head could cater to a family. My plate sees a leviathan that I had to gobble up. This hearty dish features a richly-flavored smoky fish head, with delicate meat and crisp texture on some singed bits.
The spicy stock is all about boldness, with layers of spice and aromatics that make you always keep going. But with more than three hours of smoking process, the fish’s smoky flavor won’t lose that easily.
Wholesome Restaurant Neglect One Important Thing
Banik ensured the Kepala Manyung Bumbu Mangut I’m eating is identical to the Bu Fat’s recipe. The only difference is her restaurants serve more food. For those who feel squeamish at the sight of a black, big fish head on a plate, these foods are definitely attractive alternatives.
Kepala Manyung Bu Fat, Jalan Cipete Raya no.08, South Cipete, South Jakarta 12410
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