In a narrow street in Kebon Jeruk, West Jakarta, a food vendor opposes technology yet remains legendary among Jakartans for decades.
Kitchenesia.com – In less than a decade, digital payment has reached their triumphs with more businesses, small to big, embrace cashless transaction.
But similar view is absent when Kitchenesia visited Laksa Betawi Asirot, a small restaurant selling Laksa (Betawi spicy noodle soup) only. Laksa Asirot gave the impression of a regular home; its small signage doesn’t help either. Instead, the rowdy crowds in the front yard explained that it is not a regular house.
Excluding technology from its service, the day-to-day front operation in fact is done by Ahmad, the grandson of Laksa Asirot’s owner which is pretty much a millennial. He must know technology really well.
Nupi Salam, father of Ahmad, said that Laksa Asirot limits technology simply because they have limited manpowers.
He could predict the overwhelmingness if Laksa Asirot opens order both online and offline.
“There are only four of us. I am responsible for purchasing raw ingredients. My wife and my mother-in-law mainly work in the kitchen,” said Nupi Salam.
”Cooking is the most challenging work because we cook 150 ketupat (rice wrapped in palm leaves) out of 10 kilograms rice every day. This is excluded from side dishes and laksa stock. That’s why; every member of the family contributes to the kitchen.”
His story triggered me for more information, “why don’t you hire more people to help you?”
Nupi responded to my question with a chuckle, and proceeded to reply with a simple statement. “You are the one thousandth person to ask that.”
He believed that when someone outside his family cooks laksa asirot recipe, the taste would be different. No matter how meticulous the person follows the recipe.
“You can compare my family’s laksa with others. The taste will be different completely,” said Nupi.
Family's Culinary Heritage and Asset
The family’s three generations have been running the business together. Laksa Asirot has been around since 1978 by Hajjah Muroni, a native Betawinese settled in West Jakarta. She has a daughter which married to Nupi Salam. The youngest generation is Nupi’s son and Hajjah Muroni’s grandson, Ahmad.
Laksa Asirot is very popular among Betawi-cuisine lovers; even the particular dish has developed quite a cult following.
“My customers come from many backgrounds: there are office workers, family, even tourists from overseas,” said Nupi.
"But the most loyal customers are Chinese-Indonesian who lives in Glodok (Jakarta's Chinatown), which is surprising because many laksa sellers flock in Glodok. But they still choose mine."
Nupi also shared that many businessman come to his house to offer cooperation and investment. They come with big money, looking for his approval to expand his family business under their management.
But, Nupi and his family believed preserving family heritage comes first than profit. The current Laksa Betawi Asirot has brought enough money to fulfill the family’s needs, even made his mother-in-law came for the Hajj.
“It is a family business so we want to manage it by ourselves,” closed Nupi.
Deeply Flavored Soup Fit Everyone’s Tastes
This Laksa Betawi incites me with thick yellow broth and aromatic fragrant. Surprisingly, the broth tastes sweet with subtle hint of spiciness from white pepper.
One bowl of laksa consists of ketupat slices (rice wrapped in palm leaves), fried small shrimps, chicken slices, basil, and topped with fried shallot. Laksa Betawi costs IDR 20,000 (USD 1.5), pretty affordable price for a plentiful portion and deep-flavored soup.
Another Betawi foods sold in Laksa Betawi Asirot is lontong sayur (rice cakes with vegetables) and several side dishes like sambal goreng kentang (fried potato chili) and semur jengkol (dogfruit stew). Side dishes come with different price range from IDR 3,000 – 15,000 (USD 0.3 – 1)
Laksa is best eaten with side dishes. Our recommendation is semur jengkol, thanks to its soft texture and sweet taste that goes along perfectly with laksa.
Laksa Betawi Asirot, Jalan Asirot No. 2 Sukabumi Selatan, West Jakarta. Phone: (021) 726750
