In less than 1 year since its establishment, Seia restaurant demonstrates that beyond luxurious ambience, foods are actually what make people come back.
Kitchenesia.com - Pakis Culinary Group is a significant culinary player in Jakarta dining scene, operating five restaurant brands under its wing. However, one common element ties all the restaurants together: they are all upscale restaurants.
The similarity between Pakis Culinary’s restaurants also extends to more specific aspects. I entered Seia Restaurant for the first time, and immediately felt a sense of déjà vu. The lighting, color scheme, and atmosphere seem to be in uniform with other restaurants under Pakis Group. Of course, it might be on purpose.
But let’s talk about it later.
Intimate yet Spacious
Nestled in the prestigious business center like Menara Astra is a double-edged sword for Seia. The location is fitting to Seia’s target market: white-collar people.
At the same time, the location doesn’t help Seia to standout from outside. Thus, Seia can only rely on a signage facing the building’s entrance.
Seia’s interior provides the best art of all: artworks, gong with Javanese-motif carving, and wooden walls. The outside is adorned with stony planting pots that matches the color pallet of the restaurant: dark colors like brown and dark greys.
Contrary to its small exterior, Seia is surprisingly spacious. Plenty of decorations and the dark color scheme don’t makes Seia cramped or over-furnished. Perhaps the causes of it are several plants that are placed in every corner. And also, Seia effectively uses natural light using multiple window panes on outer corner of the restaurant.
Bold Moves
As a restaurant serves Indonesian food, this brings an assumption that Seia serves comfort foods only. It’s mostly true. And considering the fact that Seia main consumers are employees, who have limited time to have lunch or dinner, Seia is pretty brave. Or should I say, risky.
That’s thankfully not the case here. The foods come between 10-20 minutes. Lumpia Semarang (fried spring roll) is smooth but not greasy. Every spring roll in Seia complements with one type of sambal, but I ordered two: mango sambal and torch ginger sambal.
It is appropriately eaten by dipping the spring roll into the sambal. But spreading the sambal straight on to the spring rolls tastes lovelier and makes it has a glossy finish. Both sambals are soft, sweet-savory relishes that make them more delectable.
Among popular main course is Ayam Kecombrang (braised chicken with chilli torch ginger sambal), sits atop of traditional-style sleek plate. The chillies are unevenly broken, a quality that reminds me of traditional, homemade sambal. It is described as “spicy” food reflected on the dominating red color. But the spiciness is rather mild with a hint of sweetness in it. The fragrant is what attracts me the most. It exudes aromatic fragrant signifies complex usage of spices and herbs.
While the first main course utilizes plain plate to add attraction to the center, Rawon Iga Surabaya (black nut beef soup) plays differently.
Rawon Iga Surabaya, on the other hand, is the whole point of presentation. This is food that makes you don’t want to eat it because it looks beautiful. A big wooden bowl contains beef, mung bean sprout, and salted egg arrives with bowls of rice, sambal, and prawn cracker.
The earthenware jug acts as a centrepiece of this dish, adding even more traditional concept while the food is presciently traditional.
This is a dish I’ve remembered about many times after my visit there due to the fact that it doesn’t ignore the taste while also looks pretty. Yes, it is "just" a rawon; and delicious rawon is sold at every corner of the city. But Seia’s Rawon Iga Bakar is an orgasmic hit of elegant presentation and faithful-to-the-original taste.
Seia honors the beauty of Indonesia nature by naming its collection of mocktails to be the names of mountains. Namely Kawah Ijen, the mocktail perfectly expresses the beauty of Ijen Mountain with bluish color on top signifies clouds and yellow at bottom resembling highland.
Another proof of Seia's meticulousness, Kawah Ijen is like a level up version of lemonade. Not only does it taste refreshingly sour, but the drop-dead-gorgeous apperance also adds the experience.
Change the Mindset
Of course, there are prices to pay. Think of Seia as high-altitude dining, with prices to match. And be prepared to feel like a royalty the moment you get here.
